Softer styles are taking the spotlight again, from the return of soft glam and nude lips to the rise of the brown smoky eye. As celebrity makeup artist Brandy Allen explains, layering shades of brown creates depth without the harshness. Still, the technique can be tricky. Ahead, Allen and fellow celebrity makeup artist Sean Harris break down the ins and outs of the brown smoky eye, including how to execute it like a pro

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Brown vs. Black

It’s no secret that brown is having a moment right now, especially in eye makeup. The hue has the unique ability to create a bold, alluring effect while remaining soft, making it the best of both worlds, says Allen. “In terms of a smoky eye, brown delivers the sultriness of a classic smoky eye, but is much more wearable,” she says. The shade is also far more forgiving than black—whether you’re working with nude or chocolate-toned shadows, you don’t have to worry as much about placement or blending.

Harris agrees, noting that brown shadows offer depth without the extra work. “The softness of the color is perfect for sculpting the eyes and accentuating their shape. It also allows the lashes to pop against the skin, where they can easily get lost in a traditional carbon black look,” he says.

One of the biggest advantages of a brown smoky eye is its versatility. Whether you prefer a subtle nude wash or a more expressive espresso or mocha moment, the look is universally flattering. “Warm brown tones blend seamlessly into the skin’s natural undertones and give a lit-from-within kind of softness rather than stark contrast,” says Allen. A brown smoky eye can also transition seamlessly from day to night, depending on how you choose to wear it.

How to Create a Brown Smoky Eye

Creating the perfect smoky eye is all about balance. Too much product can look heavy, while overblending can wash everything out. The key to a stunning brown smoky eye starts with the right shades and a solid base. “You’ll need 2-3 colors: a soft brown, mid-tone and richer shade,” says Harris. Using an eyeshadow palette with buildable shadows is a good place to start. Allen adds that an eyeshadow base enhances color and helps the look last.

Once your base is prepped, applying each shade with the proper brush is essential. “Begin by gently sweeping the medium brown across the lid with a medium brush, then add the richer tone to the crease and outer corner with the same light nature,” she says. As the colors get deeper, you can swap out your fluffy brush for a smaller style to define the shape and keep it from becoming messy.

Adding a darker shade to the crease and outer V intensifies the smoky effect. “Your deepest tone should be along your lash line and gently into the crease to create a gradient, while the middle shade will help to create a nice transition,” says Harris.

After placing all the shadows, reach for a clean brush to soften harsh edges and refine the overall blend. “Blending is the key to this look, so you want to keep the edges clean and the final look soft,” says Allen. To finish, she suggests opting for a dark brown liner—think espresso or mocha. A creamy formula is ideal, since it can be lightly smudged along the lash line to level up the smoky effect.

Matte vs. Shimmer

Smoky eye makeup is often synonymous with a matte finish. While matte formulas do help create a soft glam effect, they’re not the only option. According to Allen, subtle layers of shimmer can transform a brown smoky eye into something elevated. A light champagne or soft bronze under the brow bone and in the inner corner can open the eyes and keep the look bright rather than heavy.

However, she cautions against going overboard with glittery or metallic shadows. “If you’re opting for a shimmery smoky eye, keep it mostly on the lid. When placed in the crease or lower lash line, it can drag the look down and create an unintended “tired-eye” effect.

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